The following information can be used to build our Cormorant 16 as a stitch & glue kayak. This is presented "as is" and is not meant to be a set of detailed building plans. The experienced builder should, however, be able to use this information to construct the kayak using standard stitch & glue construction techniques. This information is the property of Squeedunk Kayaks and is presented for your personal use only. Any commercial use is not permitted. The builder assumes full responsibility for the safety and seaworthiness of the finished kayak.
The Cormorant is our main line kayak. It is a classic hard-chine kayak based on traditional West Greenland craft. It has a shallow "V" bottom and a symmetrical hull fore and aft. This is a stable and responsive kayak, well suited to both the beginning paddler as well as the seasoned kayak enthusiast.
The hull design of this kayak features chines that rise as they approach the bow and stern. This enhances tracking by lowering the kayak a bit more into the water, while at the same time makes turning easier due to the shortening of the effective waterline length when leaned. This unique combination of handling characteristics makes the Cormorant a real pleasure to paddle.
The Cormorant 16 has an actual overall length, 16 2", and a beam of 22 1/2". The Cormorant 16 is a medium volume kayak, with ample capacity for week-long trips. This kayak handles best with a payload of 125 to 225 pounds, but can be loaded a bit more.
Panel Offsets for Cambered Deck Version
The Cormorant hull is constructed of 4 panels, two for the bottom and two for the sides. Recommended material is 4 mm marine grade plywood, either Okoume or Meranti. The following table presents offsets from a straight baseline for the top and bottom edges of the bottom and side panels. Stations are given in inches measured from the bow end of the panel. Measurements are given to the nearest 1/16", with + and - designating 1/32" more and less. The first two offset tables are for construction using shear clamps and a cambered deck. Offsets for a multi-paneled peaked deck without shear clamps are given in the bottom three offset tables.
This design lends itself well to variations in length. We have built essentially the same kayak in lengths from 13' 6" to 18' 2". At the 13' 6" length, we take 1/2" off the top edge of the side panels to make an ideal kid's sized kayak (at this size, we make a few additional modifications to allow decreasing the beam to 22" and decreasing the deadrise to 1", but you don't have to do this). At the 18' 2" length, we add 1/2" to the top edge of the side panels to make a high volume touring kayak. All this can be done simply by shortening or lengthening the spacing between stations. If you change all of the stations by the same amount, the center of buoyancy will stay proportional to the length.
Hull Bottom Panel
Hull Side Panel
After you mark out the stations and the offsets on your panels, fair between the offset marks with a batten to eliminate any slight irregularities. Stitch and tape the panels together. The bow and stern ends may need some minor trimming. The maximum beam (outside hull edges) of 22 1/2" should be located at 96" from the bow. The finished hull should have about 2 1/2" of rocker and 1 1/2" of deadrise. We install fore and aft plywood bulkheads before taping the seams.
For the deck, we use cambered 3 mm plywood, glassed on the inside. You could also use 4 mm. We use a complex parabolically shaped camber that is formed prior to installation, but a regular curve will suffice. A 14 to 16" radius camber works well for the bow deck with a 24" or more radius for the stern deck. We attach the deck to 3/4" square shear clamps glued to the upper edges of the side panels. Laminated deck beams are installed at the front and rear of the cockpit location before installing the deck. The center of buoyancy is 96.4" from the bow. The cockpit should be located so the seat back is about 10" behind this point.
Install whatever cockpit style, hatches, rigging, etc. you desire.
Panel Offsets for Multi-paneled Peaked Deck Version
The following tables present offsets for building the Cormorant 16 with a multi-paneled peaked deck. As a warning: this version HAS NOT YET BEEN BUILT, however the panel edges for the deck appear to be fair, and it should go together with no major problems. NOTE ALSO that the maximum beam for this version is 21.8" rather than the 22.5" of the cambered deck version. This is due to the lower shear to accomodate the paneled deck.
Hull Bottom Panel
Use same offsets as on cambered version
Hull Side Panel
Side Deck Panel
Center Deck Panel
Send mail to firstname.lastname@example.org with questions or comments about this