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Grebe Building Info

 

 

 

Disclaimer

The following information can be used to build our Grebe as a stitch & glue kayak.  This is presented "as is" and is not meant to be a set of detailed building plans.  The experienced builder should, however, be able to use this information to construct the kayak using standard stitch & glue construction techniques.  This information is the property of Squeedunk Kayaks and is presented for your personal use only.  Any commercial use is not permitted.  The builder assumes full responsibility for the safety and seaworthiness of the finished kayak.

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Grebe

The Grebe is our "kid's sized" kayak. It is a classic hard-chine kayak based on traditional West Greenland craft.  It has a shallow "V" bottom and a symmetrical hull fore and aft.  The design is based on our Cormorant hull, with a slightly narrower beam and lower height, along with a few additional modifications to maximize performance of the shorter hull.  This is a stable and responsive kayak,   suited to kids or small adults from about 50 to 125 pounds in weight and up to about 5' 5" in height (this can be stretched a bit by moving the front bulkhead forward a few inches).

The hull design of this kayak features chines that rise as they approach the bow and stern. This enhances tracking by lowering the kayak a bit more into the water, while at the same time makes turning easier due to the shortening of the effective waterline length when leaned.  This unique combination of handling characteristics makes the Grebe a real pleasure to paddle.

The Grebe has an overall length, 13’ 6", and a beam of 22".  The Grebe is a low volume kayak, but will hold sufficient kid's gear for short trips.  This kayak handles best with a payload of 50 to 125 pounds, but can be loaded a bit more.

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Panel Offsets for Cambered Deck Version

The Grebe hull is constructed of 4 panels, two for the bottom and two for the sides.  Recommended material is 4 mm marine grade plywood, either Okoume or Meranti.  The following table presents offsets from a straight baseline for the top and bottom edges of the bottom and side panels.  Stations are given in inches measured from the bow end of the panel.  Measurements are given to the nearest 1/16", with + and - designating 1/32" more and less.

Hull Bottom Panel

Station

0

7 7/8 12 24 36 48 60 72 84 96 108 120 132 144 9/16 149 15/16+
Top edge 4 1/4+ 4 5/16 4 3/8+ 5 1/16- 5 3/8+ 7 15/16 9 1/4+ 10 1/16 9 15/16+ 8 7/8+ 7 1/2+ 6 1/8 5 1/8- 4 1/2 4 1/4+
Bottom edge - 0 3/8- 3/4+ 15/16 1 1/16 1 1/8+ 1 1/4+ 1 7/16 1 5/8- 1 3/4+ 1 7/8+ 1 3/4 7/8 -

Hull Side Panel

Station 0 6 9/16 12 24 36 48 60 72 84 96 108 120 132 144 156 156 15/16 164 1/8+
Top edge 7 1/2+ 7 1/4- 6 13/16 6 5/16 6 1/8- 5 15/16+ 6 1/8 6 1/4 6 3/8+ 6 7/16 6 5/16 6 1/4 6 1/4- 6 7/16 6 15/16 6 15/16+ 7 1/2+
Bottom edge - 2 11/16 2 1/8 1 1/8- 3/8+ 1/16 0 1/8- 1/4- 1/8 1/16 1/4- 11/16 1 7/16 2 1/16- 2 1/16 -

After you mark out the stations and the offsets on your panels, fair between the offset marks with a batten to eliminate any slight irregularities (if something does not match, it is more important to have fair lines than to be exactly on every offset mark).   Install 3/4" square shear clamps along the top edges of the side panels (let them stick up above the panels about 1/4" near the center   if you are planning a highly cambered deck).  Stitch and tape the panels together.  The bow and stern ends may need some minor trimming.  The maximum beam (outside hull edges) of 22" should be located at about 80" from the bow.  The finished hull should have about 2 1/4" of rocker and 1 1/4" of deadrise.  We install fore and aft plywood bulkheads before taping the seams.   We usually place the front bulkhead 48" from the bow, and the rear bulkhead 94" from the bow.  Make the tops of the bulkheads to fit whatever deck shape you use.

For the deck, we use cambered 3 mm plywood, glassed on the inside.   You could also use 4 mm.  We use a complex parabolically shaped camber that is formed prior to installation, but a regular curve will suffice.  A 14 to 16" radius camber works well for the bow deck with a 24" or more radius for the stern deck (our decks have a sharp radius at the center which gradually flattens out towards the shear).  The deck is glued to the 3/4" square shear clamps after the bevel of the top edge has been planed to match the curve of the deck.  Laminated deck beams are installed at the front and rear of the cockpit location before installing the deck (we install these before taping the seams).  The rear of the cockpit should be located 91 1/2" from the bow.  We use a 14" by 26" cockpit with a cockpit recess (see Nick's book - must book to have even if you are not building a stripper) that extends 4 1/4" in front of and 2 1/4" behind the cockpit.  If you use this, be sure to locate the deck beams so they will be clear of the cockpit recess.

Install whatever cockpit style, hatches, rigging, etc. you desire.

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Here is a view of our standard cockpit shape.  The cockpit recess shows at front and rear.  Print this and scale it to 14" by 26" and you should be able to duplicate our cockpit.  Excuse the reflections (and this was on a cloudy day).

 

 

 

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Last modified: October 05, 2000